Ramen Wars: A 60-Year History of Samyang, Nongshim, and Ottogi

The Fierce and Passionate History of Three Families Born from a Nation’s Hunger

• Understand the 60-year history of ramen in South Korea.
• Compare and analyze the rise and fall and core strategies of the three companies: Samyang, Nongshim, and Ottogi.
• Explore how K-ramen became a global cultural icon.

A Bowl of Hope, The Beginning of Everything

The prologue of the Ramen Wars began in the late 1950s in war-torn South Korea. At that time, people filled their hunger with “kkulkkuli juk,” a porridge made by boiling food waste from U.S. military bases. In the early 1960s, Jeon Jung-yoon, the late founder of Samyang Foods, who witnessed this harsh reality, decided to create an affordable and nutritious alternative food. The answer was “ramen” he tasted in Japan.

This determination marked the start of a grand ambition to solve the nation’s food shortage. Around this single bowl of ramen, three great families would wage a monumental war for the next 60 years.

• Samyang: The first kingdom born to ease the nation’s hunger
• Nongshim: The challenger who nurtured ambition amid sibling rivalry
• Ottogi: The patient powerhouse who quietly walked its own path and waited for the right time

Now begins the fierce and passionate “Game of Ramen Thrones,” paralleling modern Korean history.

Act 1: The First Kingdom – The Era of the Samyang Family (1963–1984)

Jeon Jung-yoon persistently persuaded the government to secure $50,000 in funding and obtained technology and equipment with the help of Japan’s Myojo Foods. The president of Myojo Foods was moved by his patriotism and provided the soup recipe without charging any royalties.

On September 15, 1963, South Korea’s first Samyang Ramen was launched at a groundbreaking price of 10 won. Initially, it was misunderstood as “fabric” or “plastic,” but thanks to nationwide free tasting events and the government’s encouragement of mixed and flour-based foods, sales skyrocketed.

The original chicken broth ramen evolved into a spicy beef broth suited to Korean tastes after former President Park Chung-hee advised, “Add more chili powder.” Until the early 1980s, Samyang dominated the market with over 60% share, reigning as the absolute monarch of the ramen kingdom.

Act 2: The Challenger’s Counterattack – The Rise of the Nongshim Family (1965–1988)

During the Samyang kingdom era, Shin Chun-ho, younger brother of Lotte Group founder Shin Kyuk-ho, quietly sharpened his sword. Defying his brother’s opposition, he established “Lotte Industrial,” which later became “Nongshim.”

Shin Chun-ho invested heavily in independent R&D under the philosophy that ramen should be a staple food, not a snack. As a result, the 1980s saw the birth of a “hit product army” that shook the Korean ramen market.

• Neoguri (1982): Thick udon-style noodles with refreshing seafood broth
• Ansungtangmyun (1983): Miso-based broth replicating savory mustard leaf soup
• Chapaghetti (1984): Pioneer of brothless ramen combining jajangmyeon and spaghetti
• Shin Ramyun (1986): Symbol of the intense spiciness Koreans crave

Samyang faltered under this onslaught, and in 1985 Nongshim finally claimed the number one market share. This was a significant historical fact showing Nongshim had already taken the throne by product strength before the later “beef tallow scandal.” While Samyang sold “hunger relief,” Nongshim sold “eating pleasure and Korean identity.”

Act 3: The Beef Tallow Scandal – The Burned Throne (1989–1997)

In November 1989, prosecutors shocked South Korea by announcing that “Samyang fried ramen using ‘industrial beef tallow.’” The term “industrial” was fatal.

However, the truth was different. The beef tallow Samyang used was classified as “non-edible” only before refining, but was a fully refined, harmless edible oil. In fact, they used more expensive oil than palm oil for a richer taste. A few days later, the government announced it was “harmless to humans,” but the stigma of “industrial” remained.

[Insight] The beef tallow scandal is a painful example of how sensational stigma can overpower complex truths. It parallels today’s fake news spread on social media. It clearly shows the tragedy when emotional fear dominates public opinion over fact-checking.

Samyang turned to ashes. Factories stopped, employees left, and market share plummeted to an unrecoverable level.

Market Share Changes Before and After the Beef Tallow Scandal (%)

After eight years of legal battles, the Supreme Court acquitted Samyang in 1997, but it was a hollow victory.

Act 4: The Patient Survivor – Ottogi Family’s Survival Story (1988–2010s)

While the two giants fought, Ottogi quietly walked its own path. Entering the ramen market in 1988, Ottogi’s survival strategy was “trust” and “goodness.”

• Price freeze: Kept “Jin Ramen” prices frozen for over 10 years, standing with the common people.
• Social contribution: Sponsored surgeries for thousands of children with heart disease and reduced irregular employment rates, becoming synonymous with a “good company.”
• Ethical management: Paid over 150 billion won in inheritance tax without evasion, gaining national trust.

Thanks to these efforts, consumers nicknamed Ottogi “Godtogi (God + Ottogi),” leading to steady market share growth. Ottogi created a new competitive axis based on “ethics” and “trust,” not just taste or innovation. Consumers bought not just a pack of ramen but also the value of supporting a good company.

Act 5: The Phoenix’s Rise – Samyang’s Global Conquest (2012–Present)

Twenty years after the beef tallow scandal, a miracle came to Samyang, once thought finished. It began with the idea of Vice Chairwoman Kim Jung-soo, the founder’s daughter-in-law, who was inspired by spicy chicken galbi restaurants to create ramen with an “addictive spicy flavor.”

Released in 2012, Buldak Bokkeum Myun initially had a modest domestic response. But the miracle started with overseas YouTubers’ **“Fire Noodle Challenge.”

[Insight] The success of Buldak Bokkeum Myun is a great comeback story created by consumers themselves. I believe it is similar to how K-pop fans’ “fancam” culture made idol groups global stars. It shows that voluntary consumer participation and play culture, not corporate marketing, can be the best marketing strategy of the 21st century.

This challenge turned Buldak Bokkeum Myun into a global “content” and “game.” Samyang’s sales and stock price soared, and it spectacularly revived as a global company with 77% export ratio.

Comparison of Core Strategies of the Three Major Ramen Companies

Conclusion

The 60-year war in a bowl of ramen is a microcosm of modern Korean history. The story that began amid the ruins of war has now become a symbol of K-culture captivating taste buds worldwide.

• Key Summary:

  1. Samyang solved the national food shortage as the “first,” then spectacularly revived with “Buldak” to conquer the world.
  2. Nongshim toppled a 20-year fortress with independent technology and strategies targeting Korean tastes, reigning as the absolute power.
  3. Ottogi steadily grew based on trust as a “good company,” proving that corporate social responsibility can be a strong competitive advantage.

Now, the stage of the ramen wars is the world. The true winner of this war is not a specific company but “K-Ramen” itself, established as a global cultural icon. What is your favorite ramen and why? Share your story in the comments!