The History of Doenjang: The Soul of the Korean People in a Single Soybean

Introducing the great epic of doenjang, which began with a small soybean on the Korean Peninsula and shaped the soul of our people.

• Understand the origins and development of doenjang that have continued for thousands of years.
• Learn how doenjang and soy sauce came to be separated.
• Discover the wisdom and philosophy our ancestors embedded in doenjang.

The Beginning of All Stories: A Small Soybean on the Korean Peninsula

Like all great epics, the history of doenjang also begins with a small and humble protagonist: the ‘soybean.’ The homeland of this crop, now served on tables worldwide, was Manchuria and the Korean Peninsula.

Archaeologists have found charred soybeans at Gojoseon sites, proving that people in this land have been cultivating soybeans with great care for thousands of years.

The Korean Peninsula was like land prepared for soybeans. Not only did they grow well in barren soil, but they also enriched the land and provided a rich source of high-quality protein lacking in rice meals, becoming a reliable nutritional source for our ancestors.

Thus, soybeans and the Korean people share a history of symbiosis that has shaped and developed each other over thousands of years.

The Magic of Time and Microbes: The Discovery of Fermentation

To overcome the limitations of soybeans, which are difficult to eat raw and spoil quickly when cooked, our ancestors applied the great wisdom of ‘fermentation.’

The 3rd-century Chinese historical text “Records of the Three Kingdoms” records that “Goguryeo people excelled at making fermented foods such as brewing alcohol and making sauces,” testifying that fermentation technology on the Korean Peninsula was internationally recognized at the time.

Fermentation technology was both a food preservation method to survive harsh winters and a nutritional science that maximized the nutritional efficiency of soybeans. It enabled a stable food supply and became a solid foundation for social development.

The Ancestor of Doenjang, the Birth of ‘Si (豉)’

As fermentation technology became systematized, the original form of doenjang called ‘si (豉)’ appeared, marking its first historical record.

In 683 AD, the inclusion of ‘jangsi (醬豉)’ in the wedding gift list of King Sinmun of Silla indicates that ‘si’ was not just food but a luxury item symbolizing wealth and authority of the time. Making ‘si’ required abundant soybeans, precious salt, and advanced fermentation techniques.

Interestingly, the ancient Chinese text “Bowuzhi (博物誌)” records ‘si’ as a product imported from abroad, lending weight to the possibility that its origin lies on the Korean Peninsula.

The Great Separation: Doenjang and Soy Sauce Part Ways

The history of ‘si,’ which began in a single jar, soon faced a great separation that changed the course of Korean culinary history. By the early Goryeo period, our ancestors developed a technique to ferment meju in brine and separate the dark liquid from the yellow solid.

This gave birth to the clear, deep umami of ‘soy sauce’ and the savory, rich flavor of ‘doenjang.’ This separation was a technological leap that produced two essential seasonings with different uses from a single fermentation process.

Through this great separation, the ‘grammar’ of Korean flavors was finally completed. Soy sauce is used in clear soups and braised dishes, while doenjang is used in stews, ssamjang, and seasoned dishes, forming the basis of countless Korean recipes.

The Heart of Flavor, the Wisdom of Making Meju

All the flavors of doenjang and soy sauce begin in the small universe called ‘meju.’ The process of boiling soybeans well, pounding them, shaping them into blocks, and tying them with rice straw to dry under the eaves throughout winter is an art combining science and devotion.

While meju dries, beneficial microbes such as Aspergillus oryzae from the air and Bacillus subtilis from the rice straw break down soybean proteins, creating deep, savory flavors and aromas. Isn’t it amazing that invisible microbes compose this symphony of taste?

Although our ancestors did not know about microbes, they learned through experience how to cultivate the optimal microbial ecosystem. This was applied microbiology in harmony with nature and a crystallization of wisdom.

Beyond Time, Embedded in the Lives of the People

Through the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties, doenjang was used as a national relief food and medicine, deeply ingrained in the lives of the people to the extent it was a measure for family fortunes. Our ancestors praised the five virtues of doenjang, ‘Odeok (五德),’ elevating its value to the realm of philosophy.

The Five Virtues of Doenjang (Odeok): Ancestors’ Wisdom Explained by Modern Science

Conclusion

I too feel a sense of comfort when smelling the savory aroma of doenjang stew. A spoonful of doenjang contains more than just simple flavor.

• A time capsule of history: Doenjang is the history of our people that began with soybeans on the Korean Peninsula thousands of years ago.
• The root of Korean flavor: The discovery of fermentation and the separation of doenjang and soy sauce were great innovations that completed Korean cuisine’s flavor.
• A crystallization of wisdom: The scientific wisdom in meju and the ‘Odeok’ reveal our ancestors’ philosophy beyond food.

How about tasting the deep history embedded in our food tonight with a savory bowl of doenjang jjigae?