The Origin of Jjajangmyeon and Jjamppong: A Century of History in One Bowl

The Soul of Korean-Chinese Cuisine: The History of Overseas Chinese and a Reflection of Korean Culture in Two Bowls

Korean-Chinese Cuisine as Soul Food

Jjajangmyeon and jjamppong are more than just popular dishes; they are cultural symbols deeply rooted in the lives and history of Koreans. With an average of 6 million bowls sold daily, jjajangmyeon is considered Korea’s ‘soul food,’ while jjamppong is beloved for its spicy, hearty broth. Although we call them ‘Chinese cuisine,’ it is difficult to find their origins in China or Japan as we know them.

The history of these two dishes is a remarkable example of how immigrant communities creatively adapted their culture to a new environment. This article traces the origins of jjajangmyeon and jjamppong and follows their dramatic transformation as they settled into Korean society. This is more than a food history; it is a grand narrative of the survival, adaptation, and creativity of the overseas Chinese (Huaqiao) who established themselves in Korea from the late Joseon period to the present, resulting in a great ’naturalization’ of food.

The Origin of Jjajangmyeon: From Salty to Sweet Comfort

Prototype: China’s Zha Jiang Mian (炸醬麵)

The root of Korean jjajangmyeon is the Chinese Zha Jiang Mian (炸醬麵). Literally meaning ’noodles topped with fried sauce,’ the key is a sauce made by frying fermented soybean paste.

The Shandong-style Zha Jiang Mian, the ancestor of Korean jjajangmyeon, uses a fermented soybean paste called Tianmianjiang (甛麵醬) made from fermented soybeans and wheat flour. Its basic flavor is not sweet but ‘salty and savory.’ The sauce is thick like Korean ssamjang and is served in small amounts on noodles to be mixed.

The biggest difference lies in the toppings. Chinese Zha Jiang Mian is served with generous amounts of julienned fresh vegetables like cucumber and celery, which diners mix themselves. This highlights the ‘joy of combination’ and ‘contrast in texture,’ whereas Korean jjajangmyeon has all ingredients stir-fried together in the sauce, prioritizing ‘immediate flavor delivery’ and ‘integrated taste.’

Comparison: Korean Jjajangmyeon vs. Chinese Zha Jiang Mian (Shandong style)

Birth: History Beginning at Incheon Port

The history of Korean jjajangmyeon began with the opening of Incheon Port in 1883. Chinese merchants and laborers from Shandong Province settled in the Qing concession area and started making Zha Jiang Mian to reminisce about their hometown flavors.

Early Zha Jiang Mian was an affordable and simple meal for dock workers in Incheon. It was more of a street food than a formal dish, served as noodles cut with a knife topped with sauce.

The restaurant Gonghwachun (共和春), opened in 1905 and often credited as the origin of jjajangmyeon, is generally regarded by scholars not as the inventor but as a symbolic establishment that popularized the dish. The title ‘original’ was emphasized later when Incheon developed Chinatown as a tourist attraction. The old Gonghwachun building now serves as a jjajangmyeon museum.

Transformation: Capturing Korean Taste Buds

The jjajangmyeon we know today was completed in the mid-20th century through three key elements.

First is the ‘Caramel Revolution’ of 1948. Overseas Chinese Wang Songsan developed ‘Saja Brand Chunjang’ by mixing caramel into the traditional Tianmianjiang. This innovation made the sauce black and glossy, reduced saltiness, and added sweetness and umami, perfectly appealing to Korean tastes.

Second is the ‘Trinity of Ingredients.’ In the 1950s, large quantities of flour arrived through U.S. aid, and government campaigns promoting mixed grain and flour-based foods increased demand for noodle dishes. From the 1960s, mass cultivation of onions provided a cheap, sweet ingredient that became the main component of the sauce.

Third is the introduction of water starch slurry. Adding water starch while stir-frying transformed the thick paste into a viscous liquid sauce. This increased the sauce volume, neutralized saltiness, and improved heat retention during delivery, optimizing it for the delivery culture.

Culture: Becoming a National Dish

Jjajangmyeon became an affordable yet special dining option, a dish to celebrate family milestones.

Eating jjajangmyeon on graduation day and moving day is a uniquely Korean tradition. On graduation day, it was the best reward and celebration parents could give their children; on moving day, it was the perfect quick meal when the kitchen was unusable.

The popularization was greatly aided by the 1970s introduction of the tin delivery bag, the ‘cheol-gabang.’ This technological innovation matched Korea’s ‘ppalli-ppalli’ (fast-paced) culture, and jjajangmyeon’s excellent heat retention made it the ideal menu item. Thus, jjajangmyeon transcended food to become a ‘ritual’ marking life’s milestones.

The Origin of Jjamppong: From White Broth to Fiery Passion

Roots: Two Competing Theories

The origin of jjamppong is much more complex than jjajangmyeon, with two main competing theories.

1. Via Japan Theory: Claims that Nagasaki’s ‘Champon (ちゃんぽん)’ was introduced to Korea. The name ‘jjamppong’ itself is said to derive from the Japanese ‘chanpon.’
2. Direct from China Theory: Argues that it originated directly from ‘Chao Ma Mian (炒碼麵),’ brought by immigrants from Shandong, China. ‘Chao Ma Mian’ means ’noodles stir-fried with various ingredients,’ and the chewy northern-style noodles in Korean jjamppong support this.

The most convincing scenario is a ‘fusion theory.’ The dish’s base came from Shandong-style ‘Chao Ma Mian,’ but the name was borrowed from ‘Nagasaki Champon,’ which had strong cultural influence during the Japanese colonial period.

Comparison of Jjamppong Origins

Birth: The ‘Baptism by Fire’ of Red Jjamppong

The most dramatic moment in jjamppong history is the transformation of the white broth into red—the ‘baptism by fire.’ Until the 1960s, ‘Chao Ma Mian’ or ‘jjamppong’ was a non-spicy white broth dish.

The ‘Red Revolution’ occurred from the late 1960s to the 1970s. It was a deliberate innovation by overseas Chinese chefs to appeal to Korean preferences for spicy food. By adding red chili powder and chili oil during stir-frying, they fundamentally changed the broth’s character. This new red jjamppong, with its spicy and refreshing taste, quickly gained popularity as a hangover cure.

There is testimony suggesting that the port city of Gunsan may be the birthplace of red jjamppong. In the early 1970s, a Chinese chef in Gunsan reportedly added chili to the existing Chao Ma Mian to reduce greasiness, creating red jjamppong.

Present: A Symphony of Flavors and Variations

Modern jjamppong emphasizes the ‘refreshing’ flavor from seafood broth. As its popularity grew, various variations emerged.

• Samseon Jjamppong (三鮮짬뽕): Originally referring to three precious ingredients from sky, earth, and sea, it now means ‘premium’ or ‘special,’ typically including shrimp, squid, and other abundant seafood as a marketing term.
• Spicy Jjamppong: Maximizes the core identity of spiciness by adding Cheongyang chili peppers and others, targeting spice enthusiasts.

Jjajangmyeon vs. Jjamppong: Different Localization Strategies

The evolution of jjajangmyeon and jjamppong showcases the remarkable insight of overseas Chinese chefs who understood the Korean market. The two dishes captured Korean tastes with opposite flavor strategies.

• Jjajangmyeon’s Strategy: Sweetness and Abundance
  • Maximized sweetness with caramelized chunjang.
  • Positioned as an affordable and hearty meal using U.S. aid flour and onions.
  • This strategy precisely tapped into the public’s desire for sweet, oily food during hard times.
• Jjamppong’s Strategy: Spiciness and Refreshment
  • Created a spicy and refreshing flavor with chili powder and oil.
  • Targeted Korea’s unique food culture seeking stress relief and hangover cures.
  • This was a clever evolution continuing Korea’s tradition of ‘spicy and hot’ soup dishes.

Conclusion: A Reflection of Korean Culture in Two Bowls

I personally have vivid memories of eating jjajangmyeon on graduation day. What do jjajangmyeon and jjamppong mean to you? Through their history, we can identify three key points:

1. Jjajangmyeon is a ‘history of sweetness.’ An innovation by one entrepreneur combined with national economic policy, it became an affordable luxury and nostalgic food.
2. Jjamppong is a ‘history of spiciness.’ A product of complex East Asian exchanges meeting Koreans’ fiery palate, it became a symbol of intense comfort.
3. Both dishes are ’naturalized Korean foods.’ They are dynamic dramas of migration and adaptation born from the creative efforts of overseas Chinese intersecting with modern Korean history.

Next time you visit a Chinese restaurant, why not recall the fascinating history behind these dishes?

Timeline of the Evolution of Jjajangmyeon and Jjamppong