The Revenge of the Rice Thief: Spam Becomes a K-Food Icon

War, Survival, and a Cultural Reversal Drama in a Can

• The cultural background behind how one food came to hold drastically different statuses in the West and Korea
• The evolution from a wartime ration to a “national rice thief” and the ultimate holiday gift
• The astonishing cultural reversal phenomenon as Spam is “re-exported” from Korea, the origin of the K-food craze

The Two Faces of Ham: The Story of Spam

Here is one food. In the West, its name often becomes the subject of jokes or is tagged as “mystery meat,” evoking images of World War II rations. Yet the very same food lives a completely different life in Korea. Visit a high-end department store food hall in Seoul, and you will find Spam elegantly boxed and displayed as a “refined gift” to express heartfelt sentiments.

On one side, cheap junk food; on the other, the best holiday gift. How did a simple processed meat product come to live such a dramatic double life? This article tells a story of war, survival, reinvention, reversal, and ultimately cultural power. Tracing Spam’s incredible journey from the chaos of World War II, through the ruins of the Korean War, to becoming a K-food ambassador launching a “counterattack” on the global stage.

Spam’s Two Faces: A Comparison of Western and Korean Perceptions

Few products illustrate how culture can assign completely different meanings as clearly as Spam does. The stark contrast between Western and Korean perceptions compresses Spam’s turbulent history.

A Product of War: From American Invention to Soldier’s Staple

Spam’s story begins in 1937 at Hormel Foods in Austin, Minnesota, USA. Developed to utilize low-profit pork shoulder cuts, the canned product’s name is said to be a contraction of ‘SPiced hAm.’

Spam’s global fame (or infamy) was born from war. Its low cost, high protein, and long shelf life made it a staple for Allied soldiers during World War II. Over 100 million pounds (about 45,000 tons) were shipped to the front lines, imprinting Spam as a “must-eat” rather than a choice for many. This oversupply soon led to fatigue and disdain, cementing its image as “junk food.”

A Fateful Encounter: Spam Arrives in War-Torn Korea

The scene shifts to the 1950s on the Korean Peninsula, devastated by war. Fresh meat was an unimaginable luxury amid severe food shortages. Into this barren land came the US military and their supplies.

Spam, flowing out from US military PX stores, was “something better” in Korea at the time. While considered a low-tier food in the West, in Korea it became a symbol of wealth and abundance. As testimonies say, “Spam was a luxury only the wealthy or well-connected could obtain.” It was a gateway to tasting American prosperity and a desperately needed protein source.

The Birth of Budae Jjigae: The Great Harmony of Spam and Kimchi

When discussing Spam’s Korean history, one cannot omit Uijeongbu in Gyeonggi Province, the birthplace of budae jjigae (army stew). This dish, made by simmering Spam and sausages leaked from US military bases with Korean kimchi and chili paste, is a perfect fusion cuisine and a postwar Korean invention reflecting the era.

At the heart of this story is the late Grandma Heo Gi-sook, who opened “Oden Restaurant” in 1960. She started by stir-frying ham and sausages from the US military base and, at customers’ requests, added kimchi and broth to develop it into a stew. The salty, greasy American surplus (Spam) met the spicy, vibrant Korean soul (kimchi) in one pot, creating a miraculous harmony. The name ‘budae (Army Base) jjigae’ proudly testifies to this painful yet creative history.

Localization Strategy: Spam Becomes the True ‘Rice Thief’

A historic turning point came in 1987 when CJ CheilJedang formed a technical partnership with Hormel Foods and began producing Spam domestically. CJ CheilJedang did not merely replicate the product but “improved” it to suit Korean tastes.

They increased pork content to 92.44%, removed starch to build a premium image, reduced saltiness, and created a softer texture—an exhaustive localization strategy. In 2002, the advertisement featuring actress Kim Won-hee with the slogan “A slice of Spam on warm rice” firmly imprinted Spam as the ultimate “rice thief” in the public mind, securing its role in Korean food culture.

Unique Gift Culture: Spam Becomes a Symbol of Heartfelt Giving

The most dramatic demonstration of Spam’s status in Korea is the “holiday gift set” culture. Remarkably, about 60% of Spam’s annual sales come from holiday gift sets. What does a Spam gift mean to you?

This unique culture results from the combination of its historical image as a “precious food,” high cost-effectiveness offering great satisfaction, and practicality with long shelf life and versatile use. Also, its broad appeal with minimal risk of disappointing recipients makes it a “safe” choice. This distinctive culture has repeatedly attracted attention from foreign media like The New York Times, offering an intriguing window into Korean society.

The Revenge of the Rice Thief: The Globalization of Spam as K-Food

For decades, Spam’s history was one of unilateral cultural adoption. Now, the tide is turning. Riding the Korean Wave represented by K-pop and K-dramas, Spam is “counterattacking” the world stage wearing the flavor of Korea.

Young generations abroad are beginning to perceive Spam as part of “hip Korean cuisine” through Korean content. Hormel, the original company, has acknowledged this shift by prominently featuring Korean recipes like budae jjigae and kimbap on its official website.

In 2024, Hormel officially launched ‘Spam Korean BBQ’ and ‘Spam Gochujang’ flavors in the US market, marking the climax of this reversal drama. This is perfect evidence of cultural reversal: food once introduced to Korea by America is now re-exported to the US mainland imbued with Korean identity.

Conclusion: More Than Just Canned Ham

Spam’s journey is the history of modern Korea encapsulated in a can. I vividly remember exchanging Spam gift sets during holidays, never realizing the profound story contained within.

• Symbol of survival and abundance: Spam was a vital protein source and an object of desire amid war-torn scarcity.
• Creative reinvention: Reborn in unique dishes like budae jjigae and perfected through localization to capture Korean tastes.
• Icon of cultural reversal: Now riding the wave of K-food influence, it is re-exported to its origin, demonstrating the power of cultural identity.

This story proves that the true meaning of food lies not in the ingredients but in the history and hearts of the people who embrace it. Next time you have a slice of Spam on your table, discover the grand narrative of war, survival, and cultural power it carries. If you have your own special Spam recipes, please share them in the comments.