1. The First Meal Enjoyed in the Sky: A Humble Beginning
The story begins in October 1919 aboard a Handley Page transport plane flying from London to Paris. Unlike the huge airplanes we know today, passengers on this small, rattling plane paid three shillings for a cold lunch box. It was a simple box containing sandwiches, fruit, and chocolate. This was humanity’s very first in-flight meal.
At the time, flying was a privilege of the wealthy, and airplanes themselves were very unstable. Even slight turbulence could cause breakage, so ceramic dishes were out of the question. Yet, simply flying was such a special experience that even a cold lunch became an unforgettable memory for passengers.
2. The Restaurant Above the Clouds: The Golden Age of In-Flight Meals
In the 1950s, with the dawn of the jet age, air travel entered a new phase. Planes became larger and more stable, and airlines fiercely competed to offer special experiences in the sky. This was the ‘golden age’ of in-flight meals.
The phrase “a flying restaurant” was no exaggeration. Pan Am served freshly roasted beef carved directly from the cart to first-class passengers, and Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) offered whole smoked hams. Menus were filled with luxury dishes like lobster, caviar, and foie gras, served with sparkling silverware and white linen napkins.
In-flight meals of this era were not just food to fill the stomach. They symbolized the elegance and excitement of air travel, a perfect gourmet experience in their own right.
3. The Decline of Taste: What Changed?
How did the glamorous sky-high banquets turn into what we see today? Several key reasons lie behind this shift.
3-1. Deregulation and the Beginning of Endless Competition
In 1978, the U.S. passed the Airline Deregulation Act, and everything began to change. Airlines, which had previously enjoyed government protection with stable routes and fares, were thrust into an era of fierce competition. The primary goal shifted from “better service” to “cheaper tickets.”
In the race to cut costs to survive, the first casualty was the once lavish in-flight meal. Expensive ingredients were replaced with cheaper alternatives, and multi-course meals were reduced to simple trays with minimal offerings.
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3-2. The Rise of Low-Cost Carriers
Competition didn’t stop there. Low-cost carriers (LCCs) that emerged in the 1990s adopted radical strategies by eliminating free meals or charging for them. Passengers willingly gave up in-flight meals for cheaper tickets, influencing major airlines as well. The idea “Is it really necessary to provide meals for free?” began to spread throughout the industry.
3-3. The Secret of the Sky Kitchen: Scientific Reasons for Changing Taste
The poor taste of in-flight meals cannot be blamed solely on airlines’ lack of effort; there are scientific reasons behind it.
- Dulled Taste Buds: At about 10,000 meters altitude, cabin pressure is lower and the air is very dry compared to the ground. Under these conditions, sensitivity to sweet and salty tastes can drop by up to 30%. The dryness also affects the nasal mucosa, making it harder to perceive food aromas. Since smell plays a major role in flavor perception, food inevitably tastes bland.
- Noise Interference: The loud noise inside the airplane also affects taste. Studies show that loud noise reduces the perception of sweetness but enhances umami (savory) flavors. This is why tomato juice is especially popular on planes—its umami flavor stands out in the noisy environment.
For these reasons, airlines use saltier and more strongly seasoned dishes than on the ground. However, reheating pre-cooked meals causes moisture loss and dry textures. In trying to preserve flavor, sometimes even stranger tastes emerge, resulting in unfortunate outcomes.
4. Dreaming of Taste in the Sky Again
Today, we no longer expect the lavish meals of the golden age on airplanes. But the story doesn’t end here. Some airlines collaborate with famous chefs to develop new in-flight menus and offer meals focused on health and sustainability, striving to reclaim the lost joy of gourmet dining in the sky.
Though it may never be as extravagant as before, the warmth of a meal enjoyed while gazing out at the clouds remains precious. What story will your tray tell on your next flight?