How Did an Ordinary Condiment Like Ketchup Conquer the World?
- The fact that ketchup originally was not made from tomatoes but from fish sauce
- How Heinz conquered the world with the slogan ‘57 Varieties’
- Why Ottogi beat Heinz and captured 80% of the Korean market
The Hidden History of Ketchup
The eternal companion of French fries, the perfect finishing touch on omurice. Would you believe that the familiar ketchup originally had nothing to do with tomatoes? Even more surprising is that it was once a dark, salty liquid made by fermenting fish at an Asian port.
The story of ketchup as we know it is just the tip of a massive iceberg. Beneath the surface lies centuries of intercontinental exchange, the brilliant ideas of ambitious entrepreneurs, fierce battles among giant corporations, and a cultural revolution that captured a nation’s palate. Now, let’s embark on an exciting journey following this red sauce in a bottle.
1. The Origin of Ketchup: Starting from Asian Fish Sauce
The story begins about 400 years ago, in the bustling ports of 17th-century Southeast Asia. British and Dutch sailors encountered a pungent, umami-rich black liquid along the southern coast of China—and quickly became addicted.
This sauce was called ‘kê-tsiap’. Surprisingly, the name ‘ketchup’ originates not from America but from a dialect in China’s Fujian province. The most accepted etymology is ‘kôe-chiap’, meaning a juice made by pickling fish or shellfish—essentially fermented fish sauce. It closely resembled today’s Vietnamese ’nuoc mam’ or Thai ’nam pla’.
This Asian sauce traveled to Europe, becoming a luxury ‘slow food’ on noble tables. European chefs created their own versions using mushrooms, walnuts, oysters, and more. Up to this point, tomatoes were not involved at all. This perfectly illustrates how globalization and cultural appropriation in food happen. The sauce we think of as most ‘American’ is actually a hybrid born from Asian wisdom and European trade.
2. The Completion of Ketchup: How Heinz Embodied the American Dream
The stage shifts to industrializing America in the late 19th century. Henry John Heinz, son of German immigrants, introduced in 1876 a recipe under the name ‘Catsup’ that became the standard for modern tomato ketchup.
The Transparent Bottle Revolution
While many manufacturers used colored bottles to hide impurities, Heinz insisted on clear glass bottles as a confident declaration of quality. This was a powerful message of ’nothing to hide’ and an excellent marketing strategy selling trust.
The Magic Number ‘57 Varieties’
Heinz’s marketing genius peaked with the slogan ‘57 Varieties’.
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- Moment of Inspiration: In 1896, Heinz was impressed by a shoe ad promoting ‘21 styles’ and realized the power of a memorable number.
- The Magic Number 57: Although producing over 60 products at the time, he combined his and his wife’s lucky numbers ‘5’ and ‘7’ to create the catchy ‘57’. This number had no relation to actual product count but became a brand icon.
- Hidden Legacy: The ‘57’ embossed on the bottle neck was designed as an intentional ‘Easter egg’—tapping it helped ketchup flow better.
Henry J. Heinz sold not just ketchup but trust. He was a market architect who shaped market rules and consumer psychology to his advantage.
3. Ketchup on the Korean Peninsula: Omurice and the ‘Fake Ketchup’ Scandal
Ketchup first appeared in Korea in the late 1930s via Japan. The red ketchup drizzled on omurice symbolized Westernized food culture.
However, after liberation and the Korean War, in 1969 Korea’s food industry faced its worst scandal: the ‘Fake Tomato Ketchup’ incident. Three domestic companies were caught selling fake ketchup made from flour and harmful dyes instead of tomatoes. This shattered trust in the domestic ketchup market.
(Insight) A Vacuum in the Market Calls for a Hero Paradoxically, this scandal was the decisive moment that birthed the modern Korean ketchup market. With bad actors eliminated, a ’trust gap’ emerged, and consumers’ thirst for reliable, high-quality products exploded. It was like a perfect stage set for a new hero to rise from the ruins. The failure of old companies became the foundation for a new giant’s success.
The Success Story of Ottogi Ketchup
1. Birth of a National Sauce: Capturing Korean Taste Buds
Two years after the scandal, in 1971, Ottogi launched ‘Tomato Ketchup’ as a savior. Ottogi’s success was not just about making the ‘real thing’ but about a thorough localization strategy.
Understanding the complex flavors Koreans are used to—like gochujang and doenjang—Ottogi found a golden ratio sweeter and tangier than American ketchup. This was the birth of ‘Korean-style ketchup,’ which quickly became the ’national sauce.’
- Overwhelming Sales: About 1.41 million tons sold by 2021, roughly 4.7 billion 300g tubes.
- Remarkable Market Share: Maintaining about 80% market share to this day.
(Insight) The Essence of Glocalization I believe Ottogi’s success is the perfect textbook example of ‘glocalization.’ They didn’t just change the taste; they achieved cultural synchronization with Korean taste DNA. This proved how much stronger ’taste affinity’ is than ‘global brand recognition.’ Ottogi didn’t just sell ketchup—they sold ‘ketchup perfectly suited to our taste,’ and that subtle difference changed everything.
2. The Great Ketchup War: Ottogi vs. Heinz
In 1986, world leader Heinz entered Korea, sparking a David vs. Goliath battle—the ‘Ketchup War.’ Heinz promoted a premium image, but Ottogi fought back head-on.
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- Winning with Quality: With the slogan “Rich Ketchup,” Ottogi boldly compared tomato content directly in ads to emphasize quality superiority.
- Distribution Network Control: Ottogi leveraged decades of a dense distribution network reaching even neighborhood stores.
The result was Korean consumers choosing their native hero.
Comparison: Ottogi vs. Heinz ‘Ketchup War’
| Category | Ottogi (Local Champion) | Heinz (Global Challenger) |
|---|---|---|
| Flavor Profile | Sweeter and tangier (optimized for Korean taste) | Standardized global recipe |
| Marketing Message | “Rich Ketchup” (emphasizing high tomato content) | Premium quality, global brand recognition |
| Key Tactics | Direct ingredient comparison ads | Leveraging brand power |
| Distribution | Nationwide established logistics network | Relatively weak initial network |
| Outcome | Maintains about 80% dominant market share | Remains a niche second player |
Ketchup Today: The Challenge from Sriracha
Today’s sauce market is no longer a kingdom ruled solely by ketchup. The spicy, exotic flavor of Sriracha has emerged, opening a new ‘game of thrones’ among sauces.
- Home Cooking Boom: Growing demand for more diverse flavors at home
- Globalized Palates: Consumers accustomed to worldwide tastes
- HMR and Delivery Culture: Expanding experiences with various foods and sauces
Of course, the ketchup empire is adapting by launching sriracha-flavored ketchup, low-sugar ketchup, and more. Where ketchup was once a universal condiment, it is now one of many choices—a traditional flavor. The future depends not on dominance but on adaptation.
Conclusion: The Never-Ending Story of the Red Sauce
From Asian fish sauce origins, to a symbol of American industrialization, to a battleground for giant corporations in Korea, and now a seasoned contender fighting for the throne among many challengers—ketchup’s history is an epic saga in itself.
Key Takeaways:
- A Surprising Origin: Ketchup began as an Asian fermented fish sauce, not tomato-based.
- Genius Branding: Heinz conquered the world market by selling ’trust’ with clear bottles and the number ‘57.’
- Victory Through Localization: Ottogi defeated global giant Heinz with a Korean-style ketchup tailored to local tastes.
Will ketchup adapt and maintain its place in the 21st-century kitchen’s new order? Next time you drizzle ketchup on omurice or fries, why not recall the tumultuous history bottled inside?